Because there is nowhere to hide. The long open facets act like mirrors rather than scattering light, so an inclusion that would vanish in a brilliant cut sits plainly visible under the table. VS1 or better is the usual advice, and VS2 only after seeing the stone.
What is the hall-of-mirrors effect?
The characteristic look of a step cut: concentric rectangular facets reflecting each other so the stone appears to have depth you can look into. It is the reason people choose an emerald cut over a brilliant, and it is entirely different in character from sparkle.
Does an emerald cut show color more than other shapes?
Yes. The open facets show body color readily, so a warm tint appears a grade or so lower than it would in a round brilliant. For a white look, buy a little higher on color than you would otherwise.
What length-to-width ratio suits an emerald cut?
Between 1.30 and 1.50 is the classic range. Around 1.40 is the most requested. Shorter reads squarer and closer to an Asscher; longer reads sleek and architectural.
Are emerald cuts good value?
Per carat they typically cost less than a round of the same grades, because less rough is lost in cutting. The offset is that you need a higher clarity grade to get a clean look, which narrows the saving.
Do emerald cuts look bigger than other shapes?
They have a large table and a broad, flat face, so they present well for their weight — though an oval or marquise will still cover more finger at the same carat.
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